Cozy Up With Crochet: Baby, It's Cold Outside!

Baby, It's Cold Outside is a popular crochet pattern for a range of items, including a graphgan, a baby sweater, a winter hat, and a cardigan. The pattern is designed for all skill levels, from beginners to advanced crocheters, and can be adapted for different sizes, from babies to adults. The pattern typically uses a combination of simple stitches, such as single crochet and half double crochet, to create a cozy and stylish finish.

Free crochet patterns for a baby it's cold outside hat

Free Crochet Patterns for a "Baby, It's Cold Outside" Hat

The "Baby, It's Cold Outside" hat by Marly Bird is a fashionable and free crochet pattern that is perfect for beginners and intermediate crocheters. The pattern is written for sizes 6-12 months (12-24 months, child, adult small, adult medium, and adult large).

Materials

• Red Heart® Chic Sheep by Marly Bird™: 1 ball each.
• Susan Bates®: H/8 (5mm).
• Stitch markers.
• Bent tip tapestry needle.

Measurements

• Circumference: 18 (19, 21, 22, 23, 24) inches.
• Height: 6 (6.25, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8) inches.

Stitches

• 6 V-sts = 4″ (10 cm).
• 9 V-st rows = 4″ (10 cm).
• GAUGE IS VERY IMPORTANT. CHECK YOUR GAUGE. Use any size hook to obtain the gauge.
• Standing Dc: Place a slip knot on your hook, yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop onto your hook. (3 loops on your hook) [Yarn over and draw through 2 loops on your hook] twice.
• V-st: (dc, ch 1, dc) in stitch or space indicated.

Cuff

The cuff of the hat is crocheted flat back and forth. Repeat row 2 until the cuff measures approximately the size below slightly stretched.

Joining Row

Ch 1, turn, fold piece in half, lining up sts of the foundation ch and last row, working through both layers, slip st across to join the foundation row and the blo of the last row.

Body

The body of the hat has a larger circumference than the cuff. Work the first round of stitches evenly spaced around the cuff.

Set-up Round

Ch 1, working around the long edge of the cuff, sc 60 (64, 68, 72, 76, 80) sts. Sts evenly spaced around, join to the first sc with a slip stitch. Fasten off. Do Not Turn.

Round 1

Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the same sc as the slip stitch, skip 1 stitch, *V-st (see special stitches) in the next stitch, skip 1 stitch; repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch into dc at the start of the round. Fasten off — 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40) V-sts.

Round 2

Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the ch-1 space of the first V-st of the previous round, *V-st in the next ch-1 space; repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch into dc at the start of the round. Fasten off — 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40) V-sts.

Rounds 3-8

Repeat round 2, 6 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) times more, maintaining the established color sequence. (A, B, C, A, B, C, etc).

Crown

With the next color in the sequence of your hat, follow the next set of instructions.

Round 1

Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the ch-1 space of the first V-st of the previous round, *Dc in the next ch-1 space, V-st in the next ch-1 space; repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch into dc at the start of the round. Fasten off — 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20) V-sts, 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20) solo double crochet sts.

Round 2

Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the ch-1 space of the first V-st of the previous round, skip the next solo dc, *V-st in the next ch-1 space, skip the next solo dc; repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch into dc at the start of the round. Fasten off — 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20) V-sts.

Round 3

Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the ch-1 space of the first V-st of the previous round, *Dc in the next ch-1 space, V-st in the next ch-1 space; repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch into dc at the start of the round. Fasten off — 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) V-sts, 7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10) solo double crochet sts.

Round 4

Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the ch-1 space of the first V-st of the previous round, skip the next solo dc, *V-st in the next ch-1 space, skip the next solo dc; repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch into dc at the start of the round. Fasten off — 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) V-sts.

Round 5

Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the ch-1 space of the first V-st of the previous round, *Dc in the next ch-1 space, V-st in the next ch-1 space; repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch into dc at the start of the round. Fasten off — 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5) V-sts, 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) solo double crochet sts.

Round 6

Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the ch-1 space of the first V-st of the previous round, skip the next solo dc, *V-st in the next ch-1 space, skip the next solo dc; repeat from * to end of round, slip stitch into dc at the start of the round. Fasten off leaving at least 10” [25.4 cm] tail — 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5) V-sts.

Finishing

Thread tail onto Bent Tip Tapestry Needle, working through the front loops only of the stitches remaining, weave the tail through all the stitches. Pull the string like a drawstring to close the top of the hat. Secure the tail on the inside of the hat, making sure the hole at the top of the hat is completely closed. Weave in any extra ends.

Materials required for a baby it's cold outside crocheted blanket

To make a "Baby It's Cold Outside" crocheted blanket, you will need the following materials:

• Yarn: The amount of yarn you need will depend on the size of your blanket. For a small baby blanket, you will likely need around 2-4 balls of yarn, while for a larger blanket, you may need 6-8 balls or more. The type of yarn you choose is also important—acrylic, cotton, or a blend of these fibres are popular choices for baby blankets as they are soft, warm, and machine washable. Some specific yarn brands and types that you may want to consider include:
• Bernat Baby Blanket Big Ball
• Patons Silk Bamboo
• Caron Simply Soft
• Lion Brand Babysoft Yarn
• Bernat Softee Baby Yarn
• Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice
• Universal Yarn Bella Chenille
• Red Heart Soft Baby Steps Yarn
• We Crochet Comfy Fingering Yarn
• Mary Maxim Starlette Yarn in medium grey and white (if following the "Baby It's Cold Outside" pattern)
• Lion Brand Yarn 24-7 Cotton Yarns
• We Crochet Brava
• Lion Brand Baby Soft Yarn
• Red Heart yarn
• Bernat Handicrafter – Cotton Yarn Family
• Knit Picks Billow 100% Pima Cotton
• Knit Picks Comfy by Knit Picks
• Lion Brand Thick And Quick yarn
• Oh Baby Yarn – 100% Organic Cotton
• Debbie Bliss Eco Baby – 100% Organic Cotton
• Crochet hook: The size of the crochet hook you need will depend on the type of yarn you are using and the stitch pattern you are following. For worsted weight yarn, you will typically need a 4 mm to 6 mm crochet hook. For bulkier yarn, you may need a larger hook, such as an 8 mm or 9 mm. Some specific hook sizes that are recommended for the "Baby It's Cold Outside" pattern include:
• Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
• Size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook
• Size K (6.5 mm) crochet hook
• Size 8 (5 mm) crochet hook
• Other supplies: In addition to yarn and a crochet hook, you may also need some or all of the following supplies for your project:
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle
• Large clamps or bobbins and holder
• Scissors
• Yarn needle
• Buttons

A guide to crochet a baby it's cold outside cardigan

A Guide to Crocheting the "Baby, It's Cold Outside" Cardigan

The "Baby, It's Cold Outside" cardigan is an adorable and cosy crochet project, perfect for keeping your little ones warm during chilly months. This guide will take you through the process of creating this stylish cardigan, ensuring your baby stays snug as a bug.

Materials Required:

• Lionbrand Homespun Yarn (Bulky/6 oz/185 yards) – 1 skein for 6 months, a little more for 12 months.
• Worsted weight yarn in a contrasting colour for edging and buttons – 1-2 oz.
• Size K (6.5mm) crochet hook for the cardigan.
• Size H (5.0mm) crochet hook for optional crocheted buttons.
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends.

Getting Started:

The "Baby, It's Cold Outside" cardigan is worked in one piece, starting at the bottom of the back. The turning chain counts as the first hdc of a row, and you will make the next hdc into the following stitch.

Creating the Back Panel:

Row 1:

Hdc into the 3rd chain. Hdc across, then chain 2 and turn. This should result in 25 (28) hdc for the back panel.

Rows 2-9:

Hdc across and chain 2, then turn. If you are making the 12-month size, complete two more rows before moving on to the next step.

Row 10:

Hdc across and fasten off.

Adding Sleeves:

Row 11:

Chain 15 (17) and, with the right side facing, hdc into the first stitch where you fastened off. Leave the chain hanging off the hook and complete the hdc. Hdc across and chain 16 (18), then turn.

Row 12:

Hdc into the 3rd chain and hdc across. Chain 2 and turn. You should now have 55 (62) hdc.

Rows 13-19:

Hdc across, chain 2, and turn. For the 12-month size, add two more rows before proceeding to the next row.

Shaping the Cardigan:

Row 20:

Hdc for 22 (24) stitches. Slip stitch in the next 11 (14) stitches, then hdc in the last 22 (24) stitches. Chain 2 and turn.

Rows 21-22:

Hdc across 22 (24) stitches. Chain 2 and turn.

Row 23:

Hdc across, then chain 12 (14) and turn.

Row 24:

Hdc into the 3rd chain. Hdc across, chain 2, and turn. You should have 33 (37) hdc.

Rows 25-27:

Hdc across, chain 2, and turn. For the 12-month size, add two more rows before proceeding.

Row 28:

Hdc into the first 18 (20) stitches. Chain 2 and turn, resulting in 18 (20) hdc.

Rows 29-38:

Hdc across, chain 2, and turn. For the 12-month size, add two more rows of hdc before fastening off.

Picking Up for the Left Sleeve:

With the front of the cardigan facing you, begin at the outside edge. Insert the hook into the first stitch and chain 2. Hdc in the next 21 (23) stitches, resulting in 22 (24) hdc.

Completing the Left Sleeve:

Row 2:

Hdc across, chain 2, and turn.

Row 3:

Hdc across, then chain 6 (8) and turn.

Row 4:

Hdc into the 3rd chain and hdc across. Chain 2 and turn. You should now have 27 (31) hdc.

Rows 5-7:

Hdc across, chain 2, and turn. For the 12-month size, add two more rows before moving on.

Row 8:

Hdc in the first 12 (14) stitches. Chain 2 and turn, resulting in 12 (14) hdc.

Rows 9-18:

Hdc across, chain 2, and turn. For the 12-month size, add two more rows before fastening off.

Edging and Buttons:

You have two options for edging and creating buttonholes:

Option 1:

With a contrast colour and the right side facing you, loosely sc along the left placket. Place 3 sc in the corner at the beginning of the neckline. Sc around the neckline, then place 3 sc in the top corner of the right placket and sc down the right side. Chain 1 and turn. Sc back around, placing 3 sc in the right corner. Continue until you reach the top of the left placket. Place 3 sc in the left corner and sc in the next stitch.

To make a long buttonhole, chain 8 and join with sc to the same stitch. Sc in the next 3 stitches, then chain 8 again and join with sc to the same stitch. Sc to the end and fasten off.

Add two rows of loose sc in a contrast colour to the short end of both sleeves.

Option 2:

With a contrast colour and the right side facing you, loosely sc along the left placket. Place 3 sc in the corner at the beginning of the neckline. Sc around the neckline and place 3 sc in the top corner of the right placket. Sc down the right side. Chain 1 and turn. Sc back around, placing 3 sc in the right corner. Continue until you reach the top of the left placket.

Place 3 sc in the left corner and sc in the next stitch. To create a buttonhole, chain 3, skip 2 stitches, and sc in the next. Sc in the following stitch, then chain 3, skip 2 stitches, and sc in the next. Sc to the end.

Chain 1 and sc around the bottom edge of the cardigan for two rows, then fasten off.

Beginner crochet patterns for a baby it's cold outside winter hat

If you're looking for a beginner crochet pattern for a "Baby It's Cold Outside" winter hat, then look no further than Marly Bird's free double crochet hat pattern. This pattern is perfect for beginners and can be made for sizes 6-12 months (12-24 months, Child, Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large).

The hat features a basic single crochet ribbing for the cuff and a traditional V-st pattern for the body of the hat. These simple stitches come together to make a wonderful hat that is both easy and fun to crochet.

To make this hat, you will need the following materials:

• Red Heart® Chic Sheep by Marly Bird™: 1 ball each (you can also make this hat with only one colour)
• Susan Bates®: H/8 (5mm)
• Stitch markers
• Bent tip tapestry needle

The finished hat will have the following measurements:

• Circumference: 18 (19, 21, 22, 23, 24) inches
• Height: 6 (6.25, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 8) inches

Before you begin, make sure to check your gauge:

• 6 V-sts = 4" (10 cm)
• 9 V-st rows = 4" (10 cm)

Now, let's get started on the hat!

Cuff of the Hat:

The cuff of the hat is crocheted flat back and forth.

Row 1: Single crochet (sc) in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain to the end, ch 1, turn — 3 sc.

Row 2: Sc in the back loop only (blo) in each sc to the end, ch 1, turn — 3 sc blo.

Repeat row 2 until the cuff measures approximately the size below slightly stretched. Please note that if you make the cuff the exact measurement of the head, it will be too loose, so it is necessary to make it a little snug for a better fit.

Joining Row:

Ch 1, turn, fold the piece in half, lining up the stitches of the foundation chain and the last row. Working through both layers, slip stitch across to join the foundation row and the blo of the last row. This will join the ends to form a loop or the cuff of your hat.

Body of the Hat:

The body of the hat has a larger circumference than the cuff. This part of the hat is worked along the long edge of the cuff.

Set-up Round: Ch 1, working around the long edge of the cuff, sc 60 (64, 68, 72, 76, 80) sts. Join to the first sc with a slip stitch. Fasten off. Do not turn.

Round 1: Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the same sc as the slip stitch, skip 1 stitch, *V-st (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next stitch, skip 1 stitch; repeat from * to the end of the round, slip stitch into the dc at the start of the round. Fasten off — 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40) V-sts.

Round 2: Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the ch-1 space of the first V-st of the previous round, *V-st in the next ch-1 space; repeat from * to the end of the round, slip stitch into the dc at the start of the round. Fasten off — 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40) V-sts.

Repeat round 2, 6 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) times more, maintaining the established colour sequence. (A, B, C, A, B, C, etc).

Crown of the Hat:

With the next colour in the sequence of your hat, follow the next set of instructions.

Round 1: Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the ch-1 space of the first V-st of the previous round, *dc in the next ch-1 space, V-st in the next ch-1 space; repeat from * to the end of the round, slip stitch into the dc at the start of the round. Fasten off — 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20) V-sts, 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20) solo double crochet sts.

Round 2: Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the ch-1 space of the first V-st of the previous round, skip the next solo dc, *V-st in the next ch-1 space, skip the next solo dc; repeat from * to the end of the round, slip stitch into the dc at the start of the round. Fasten off — 15 (16, 17, 18, 19, 20) V-sts.

Round 3: Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the ch-1 space of the first V-st of the previous round, *dc in the next ch-1 space, V-st in the next ch-1 space; repeat from * to the end of the round, slip stitch into the dc at the start of the round. Fasten off — 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) V-sts, 7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10) solo double crochet sts.

Round 4: Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the ch-1 space of the first V-st of the previous round, skip the next solo dc, *V-st in the next ch-1 space, skip the next solo dc; repeat from * to the end of the round, slip stitch into the dc at the start of the round. Fasten off — 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) V-sts.

Round 5: Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1, dc) in the ch-1 space of the first V-st of the previous round, *dc in the next ch-1 space, V-st in the next ch-1 space; repeat from * to the end of the round, slip stitch into the dc at the start of the round. Fasten off — 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5) V-sts, 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) solo double crochet sts.

Round 6: Join yarn with a (standing dc, ch 1,

Adapting a knit baby sweater pattern into a crochet pattern

Understanding the Basics

Before you begin adapting a knit pattern to crochet, it's essential to have a good understanding of both knitting and crocheting basics. Familiarize yourself with the different types of stitches used in each craft, such as knit and purl stitches in knitting, and single crochet, half-double crochet, and double crochet in crocheting. Knowing how to increase and decrease stitches in both knitting and crocheting is also crucial.

Choosing the Right Yarn and Hook

When adapting a knit pattern, select a yarn that is suitable for both knitting and crocheting. The yarn weight and type should match the requirements of the original knit pattern to ensure the correct gauge and drape. For baby sweaters, soft and lightweight yarns in DK (double knitting) or worsted weight are typically ideal. As for hooks, a size US H (5.0 mm) or I (5.5 mm) crochet hook is commonly used for baby projects.

Stitch Conversion

One of the most important aspects of adapting a knit pattern to crochet is converting the stitches. As a general rule, one knitting stitch is roughly equivalent to one single crochet stitch. However, this may vary depending on the stitch pattern and the desired fabric density. For a looser fabric, you can use half-double crochet or double crochet stitches instead. Examine the stitch pattern in the knit pattern and choose the crochet stitch that most closely resembles it.

Adjusting for Gauge

To ensure your crocheted sweater matches the size and fit of the original knit pattern, pay close attention to gauge. Work up a swatch with the chosen yarn and hook to check your stitch and row gauge. If your gauge doesn't match the pattern, adjust your hook size accordingly. Remember that crochet fabric also tends to be denser than knitted fabric, so you may need to go up a hook size or two to achieve the desired gauge.

Shaping the Sweater

When adapting the pattern, consider the shaping techniques used in the original knit pattern. Increases and decreases in knitting are often done at the beginning or end of a row, while in crocheting, they can be incorporated into the stitch pattern itself. Plan out how you will shape the sleeves, armholes, and necklines using crochet techniques like chain stitches for increasing and skip stitches or crochet two together (crtog) for decreasing.

Finishing Touches

Once you've crocheted the sweater according to your adapted pattern, it's time for the finishing touches. Sew up any seams using a yarn needle and a whipstitch or slip stitch. Weave in any loose ends neatly. If your sweater includes details like buttons or appliques, add them following the original knit pattern's instructions or your own creative vision.

Additional Resources

If you're new to adapting patterns, there are plenty of resources available online and in print. Check out websites, books, or even local crafters or associations that can provide guidance on converting knit patterns to crochet. Remember, adapting a pattern is a creative process, so feel free to experiment and make adjustments as you go to create a unique crocheted baby sweater.

Frequently asked questions